Sunday, March 25, 2007

Brushstrokes of man, part 37-b, or from rockets to rocks

(This is a continuation of the south central New Mexico landscape as impacted by man. I'd intended to get as far as the rocks either affected or created by man. I didn't make it, stalling instead in the small town of Tularosa--a place of unexplainable attraction for this romantic's heart.)

Leaving White Sands Missile Range and all its gorgeous rockets standing attentively erect against the azure sky, one passes the original White Sands thirty-two miles down the road. It's a 225 sq. mi. formation of pure white gypsum dunes 10-60 feet high. The entire national monument is completely within the larger 4,000 sq. mi. missile range. (In fact, this entire day our travel will skirt the massive missile mammoth's borders.) But we don't stop at the dunes, for this is a tour of unnatural sites created by man as they either enhance or deface the New Mexican landscape.

Another thirty miles down the road and I can't resist a few minutes stop in one of my favorite towns. On the eastern edge of the Missile Range, this small community has always exerted some kind of mystical power attraction over my brain's magnetite. Always drawn in, I can never resist the strong gravitational pull Tularosa holds over me.
Pausing on the bustling main street (Granado Street) of Tularosa, NM. That's me, standing between the two parked cars, in front of the woman pushing a stroller and the gentleman sweeping the sidewalk to my left.

It occurs to me, on the dwindling list of places where I'd live, Tularosa continues to hold a spot. And, as noted, I don't know why, who can explain the directions we're pulled by the chemistry labs of our brains?

Note in the above picture, the building on the left has apartments upstairs.I managed to locate the entrance to these apartments; to inquire if there were any vacancies. I thought living in the middle of main street commerce could provide real conveniences unaccessible in larger cities without a car.

Sadly, of the two apartments upstairs, neither was available. And the turnover rate was extremely low I learned, averaging seventeen and a half years. I don't have that kind of time, but yet I imagined how it must be, living in the hub of commerce with a window overlooking all the activities of main street. No doubt, there is never a dull moment. Someone is very lucky indeed to live here!

Mrs. Dada and I walked the three blocks of Granado Street. This day I noted, of all the little storefronts at hand, only two were open -- a hardware store and a bar. Those with future entreprenurial ambitions might want to take note of that. Hardware and bars!

The north side of Tularosa's main street, Granado. The hardware store is a Western
Auto. The only other business open is the bar across the street and a couple blocks down.


As I peered into the hardware store window, the space/time continuum suddenly collapsed when I spotted this shiny red Radio Flyer!
For a brief moment I experienced time travel, for there before me was the exact same little red wagon in the same Main Street hardware store window from my youth more than half a century earlier, until the din of the passing traffic and crowded sidewalk shoppers zapped me back to the present.

Half a block down I paused in front of a little store. I don't remember what kind of store. But it had covered its windows with that mirror like film that reflects the street it faces while preventing outsiders from seeing in.
I wondered if there was anyone inside starring out. Just in case, I drew up my camera, aimed it in their direction and fired. But I only shot myself. Feeling a bit wounded, it was time to leave. Next stop: Three Rivers Petroglyphs and the man-made rocks of Trinity.

4 comments:

eProf2 said...

uticffmThanks for pointing me in the direction of Tularosa, NM, on the east side of White Sands. Right now I'm reading Martin Cruz Smith's book, Stallion Gate, in which he describes many parts of NM, but especially Los Alamos. So, your post is timely.

Tularosa looks like so many small towns across the southwest that were established in the late 1800's and early 1900's when the west was afire with mining claims or small agriculture. Then, when the Interstates came into existence and shopping was more plentiful ten, twenty or even fifty miles away, these small towns dried up. I looked up Tularosa on Google. They make it look like a very interesting place.

I think I'm fascinated by these small western places because I can't help but think of all the dreams people had when they were building homes, commerce, and thinking of the future. Small towns are, to me, "dreams lost." So, like you in this post, I can wax romantically about places like Tularosa, Holtville, CA, Vicksburg, AZ, and on and on.

Dada, I'm going to assume that you had a dry winter and therefore couldn't photograph a wild flower spring as you planned. Our Picacho Peak (halfway between Phoenix and Tucson) didn't produce much in the way of wild flowers either.

Have a safe trip, and thanks for the unique travel guide.

Dada said...

eprof: I confess to emphasizing that part of Tularosa in this blog that was once the thriving heart of the village. Why that part of town hasn't been bulldozed years ago is unknown to me: historical district?; hysterical district? (Not at all in my eyes.) I really like this town!

Highway 70 which passes through it now harbors the mishmash majority of commerce that has managed to survive despite the Wal-Mart 10-12 miles down the road in Alamogordo.

But the highway "storefronts" never held the fascination that Tularosa so mesmerizes me with. It was first of all, the oasis-like nature of the village, so shady and lush , in the middle of this vast desert with no apparent water.

And while not the least pretentious, the south side of the highway part of town is a neighborhood that for some strange reason reminds me of little resort coastal towns along the Pacific Northwest. And I don't know why.

And because of your comment, I've been reading up on Stallion Gate over on Amazon. (I was hoping "stallion" was a reference to the northern end of the missile range. I wasn't disappointed.)

Maybe it's some romantic notion that draws me to towns like these. Or maybe a curiosity for the past, or attraction to it. No doubt that's why one of my favorite movies, "The Last Picture Show," of a dying town with windy streets populated with more tumbleweeds than cars before a backdrop of slamming screened doors and blowing dust, just grabs me by the collar and yanks me in everytime.

Coincidentally, the next stop on the brushstrokes tour is Bingham, NM, population 2. Near the Stallion Gate, it was another moving experience in a place that can't help but make one wonder what it must be like to live somewhere like that.

eProf2 said...

Two comments: Thanks for the follow-up post. I guess I should have given a little more info on the book inasmuch as it's about the bomb and the fictional account of one GI, a local native Indian, Joe. Second, did you catch Keith Olbermann last night on Tom DeLay? Apparently, according to DeLay's book, if you criticize him you are compared to Hitler and the Nazis. The man has no bounds and no sense of history, either. The special comment by KO might be on his web site today or tomorrow. Check it out.

OK, I'll look for your post on Bingham, NM, population 2.

Dada said...

eprof: I did catch Olberman last night re The Hammer. So, it may be that we are Nazis and didn't know it?